By Vanessa Walker
Nestled within the foothills of the Himalayas, McLeod Ganj is a spot of quiet good looks and magnificent contradiction, the place clergymen put on the newest Nike running shoes, the govt. consults an old oracle for very important issues, and locals wholeheartedly think in miracles. during this go back and forth memoir, Vanessa Walker recounts her lifestyles in McLeod Ganj after she leaves her task as a journalist looking for non secular renewal. whereas there, Walker all of sudden falls in love with a disrobed Tibetan monk looking safe haven from chinese language and Nepalese gurus. via her own and romantic trip, Walker recounts the complexities of a state wealthy with culture and tradition yet terrorized via chinese language keep watch over.
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Extra resources for Mantras & Misdemeanours: An Accidental Love Story
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Combined with the richly hued silk blouses worn underneath, the clothes are of such ornate finery that each woman looks like a stately court princess. Many men are wearing the male chuba, a heavy, woollen long-sleeved dress worn over trousers, with one of the arms released to hang down by the side. QX5 5/1/06 10:47 AM Page 27 Bookhouse Moving On Up Some have threaded red cotton through their long dark hair in the style worn by Khampas. I notice a sprinkling of western women dressed in chubas, walking beside Tibetan men.
I have come to McLeod Ganj immediately after serving out my notice at work, but it is July and reports of the ceaseless rains that fall until September have left me apprehensive. QX5 24 5/1/06 10:47 AM Page 24 Bookhouse Mantras & Misdemeanours say it doesn’t stop raining for weeks on end; that the air is so thick with moisture, and the concrete rooms that have sprung up all over the town such perfect incubators, that if you set a book down and leave the room for a few hours, it will grow a skin of furry marbled mould.
The best bet is always Shop Number Five, one of a row of small dark holes that line Dalai Lama-Gi Road. Shop Number Five is also known as the Magic Shop and not without reason. It is the size of a changing room but, like an expanding cube, seems to have endless supplies of both useful and arcane goods. The dour-faced shop assistants almost hiss when customers request an item, but then reach into a shadowy corner and fish it out. Numberless times their elbows have dug into deep recesses of the shop to emerge with miraculous goods: cheese graters, needle and thread, gas igniters, sanitary pads, baking soda.